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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.